What makes an Ombré Good vs. Great?
There is a big difference between a good Ombré and a great Ombré, the dividing factor is in the placement and colour transition. For a soft seamless Ombré with sexy transition, you should always stay below the parietal ridge. Don’t bring the colour transition above the cheekbones, higher than the cheekbones makes it look grown out and not professionally placed.
- Pinch each section with fingers and backcomb it twice before applying colour to diffuse placement. The hair that is left in fingers will be the hair that’s coloured. Remember, saturation equals results!
- Graduate the foils to create a soft colour transition. After backcombing, colour or lightener should be applied to the first section (closest to the head) about halfway to ¾” inch down the strand from the parietal ridge, the second foil should be ½ to an inch further down from the first, and the last section should be all ends.
- Fold foils in triangles – it looks progressive and secures the foil to keep it from sliding.
- Use diagonal sections in the back.
How do you use foil to highlight hair as opposed to the caps?
A great question as many colourists are still stuck in the 80’s, using caps. Here’s the breakdown:
The technique or placement of the foil is the architecture of the highlight. This gives you the contrast and dimension of shape.
Horizontal will always produce a highlight that goes from side to side/across. Vertical will always produce a highlight that is chunkier and that caters to the depth/interior of the hair.
So it goes a little something like this...
- The more foil, the more highlights.
- The larger the space between foils the more pieced the look.
- The more hair in each foil the heavier the contrast.
- The less hair in each foil the more natural/subtler the look.
- The amount of foil used, amount of hair in each foil & the space between determines the look.
You may either slice or weave, it’s your choice. But make sure you have neat, clean sections and subsections. Make sure foil is secured using proper folding and that your slice/weave is not too far from the scalp. At the same time, make sure you do not apply product at the very top of the foil, leave a minimal space. Then fold your foil slightly higher than your placement point.
Tip:Don't make the colour on the foils to thick... Less is more and when doing the closest to the roots, tap it on. The foils will create heat, which will expand the colour forward.
And we’ve saved the best of all for last....foil causes no discomfort to the client.
So long caps!
A few techniques from the Professionals!
Using foil to colour hair is a technique used to separate sections, preventing different colour formulas from mixing together. Using foils is an incredibly versatile method, allowing for unlimited creativity.
Since the sections of hair are kept separate, several colours can be applied in one process. And the freedom to choose the size of each highlighted strand makes it possible to create a very high end looking, multi-tonal hair colour.
Here's some techniques to help out even the newest of colour technician...
Dissect a tiny sliver of hair, either horizontal, vertical or diagonal depending on the look you want to achieve. Take into account how the piece will lay when it's hanging in its natural position.
Part off a small section and weave the tail of your comb along the surface, creating either thick or thin strands....better yet, mix it up with some small, medium and large pieces for variety and a more natural look.
Paneling:Will showcase a great style and offer variety from day to day....if it’s done right. This is a very dynamic technique where large sections of hair are colored in contrasting or complementary tones. The panels are generally underneath or at either side of the part so the paneled sections can be either played up or hidden entirely, depending on where the hair is parted. Positioning is critical with this technique, as is choosing the right color combinations.
Goodluck, and enjoy being creative!
Formulation Fun Fact
Does 10 Volume lift? It certainly CAN.
Texture and body heat will effect lifting ability.
If a client has fine hair, yes it can lift, if they have thick coarse hair, it may NOT lift, nor will 20 Volume lift, one full level in that case.
So always keep in mind...the texture of the hair as well as how many levels you are lifting when choosing your developer.
As for body heat, stress, pregnancy, thyroid and even menopause can play a roll in lifting. Place your hand on the top of the clients head and feel the warmth, if you feel the warmth, extra lifting WILL occur.